Alpamayo climb

Climbing Nevado Alpamayo

Overview

  • Availability:April – September
  • Difficulty:Hard (AD+ to D depending on route; steep ice/technical sections)
  • Altitud:~5,947 m / 19,506 ft
  • Duration:6 days / 5 nights
Alpamayo is widely regarded as one of the world’s most beautiful mountains and requires technical ice/steep-snow climbing (classic southwest / northwest faces). Guided expeditions take multiple days with approach, acclimatization, high camp, and a long summit day. This itinerary is for experienced climbers or those with prior technical training and strong fitness.

Highlights

  • One of the world’s most photogenic peaks (classic Alpamayo face).
  • Technical ice and steep-snow climbing for experienced parties.
  • High-camp life on glacier moraines with dramatic ridgeline views.
  • Extensive photographic and mountaineering opportunities.

Includes/Excludes

  • Round-trip tourist transportation.
  • Mountain guide (technical) in English, French and Spanish.
  • Cook.
  • Porters and pack animals.
  • Climbing and fixed rope equipment.
  • Camping equipment.
  • Full board during the climb.
  • First-aid kit.
  • Personal gear.
  • Travel insurance.
  • Tips.
  • Permits and park fees.
  • Personal expenses.

Itinirary

Day 1: Huaraz – Cashapampa – Base Camp (Arhuaycocha / Alpamayo valley)

Transfer from Huaraz to Cashapampa and trek to Base Camp in the Arhuaycocha valley. Prepare gear, team briefing and rest for approach.
Overnight camping.

Trek up moraine/glacier approaches to establish High Camp (glacier col between Alpamayo & Quitaraju). Final gear checks and acclimatization.
Overnight camping.

Acclimatization, ropework practice, and short reconnaissance on nearby glacier slopes to prepare for the summit push. Rest and strategy briefing.
Overnight camping.

Pre-dawn technical ascent of the steep snow/ice face and ridgeline to reach the Alpamayo summit. Long, demanding day with steep sections (often 9–12+ hours). Descend to High Camp for recovery.
Overnight camping.

Pack up high camp and descend carefully down the glacier and moraine back to Base Camp for final rest.
Overnight camping.

Final descent to Cashapampa and transfer back to Huaraz. End of the climb.
End of the climb.

Gallery

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